Wente Vineyards Shows Chardonnay’s Range

3 – The wine can be aged “sur lie,” which means the yeast that was used in fermentation is left  in the barrel and stirred regularly to produce creamier, richer flavors.

4 – And the winemaker can use a secondary fermentation to convert the apple-y Malic acid to the buttery Lactic acid.

OK, this is a lot of stuff to tell you before I get to the wines, but it was really interesting stuff, at least for a wine geek… So let’s get to the wine!

Eric’s Chardonnay 2011 is Wente’s un-oaked Chardonnay. The flavors suggest green apple, pear and a hint of tropical fruit, with a backbone of minerality that reminds me more of Chablis than California. Because the wine did not undergo malolactic fermentation, there’s bright natural acidity from the front to the back. This would be a great white to drink with shellfish or a summer salad.

Wente Morning Fog 2010 is flat-out yummy. The combination of ripe tropical fruit and snappy acidity makes it a wine I could drink all day (really!). The wine’s name pays homage to the fog that rolls in through the Golden Gate Bridge and up the Livermore Valley. Karl Wente credits the blanket of fog with cooling the vineyards and allowing the fruit to ripen slowly, developing more complex flavors. I credit Karl with hitting the perfect balance in this wine. He aged 50% of the wine is stainless steel and the balance in French oak, but there were no new barrels. The effect is more like graham cracker than a 2×4. Morning Fog also underwent 100% malolactic fermentation, but the finish is crisp and fresh just the same.

Wente Riva Ranch Chardonnay 2010 is made with fruit from Wente’s vineyards in Arroyo Seco. Karl says the soil in these Central Coast vineyards is deeper, producing richer tropical fruit flavors. Whatever — this is the wine that turned by Sauvignon-Blanc-loving husband around. And that’s surprising, since 90% of the wine was aged in oak (of which 60% of the barrels were new) and just 10% in stainless steel. The numbers made me expect an oak bomb, but what I tasted was a very rich, creamy Chard with lots of creme brulee on the palate and spice on the finish. It’s elegant and delicious, definitely a great food wine.

In The Nth Degree Chardonnay 2010, Wente aims to showcase the best that the Livermore Valley has to offer. Karl selects fruit from the best vineyard blocks and barrel ferments it in 50% new oak. But note that he uses only natural yeast for this fermentation, and lets fermentation rung longer and slower than usual. Sur Lie aging adds extra richness and complexity, and partial malolactic fermentation (about 70%) retains some of the natural acidity. The result is a Chard with big fruit flavors bracketed by butterscotch and toasty oak. This wine, too, is very small production and can’t be found outside the tasting room.

It was a blast tasting all these styles side by side. Which would I go out and buy? Well, the Riva Ranch is well-priced at around $20 and would be a great dinner party wine, but I could enjoy the Morning Fog all week long for just $12. In fact, it could become my go-to summer Chard… Cheers!

 

 

 

 

 

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